Killwager Status Dial - Assembly


These instructions are for the assembly of Killwager status dials. These pieces are fairly easy to assemble, but in order to make sure they spin as freely as possible, it's a good idea to read through these instructions and follow the order of operations laid out below.

If you'd like to review our basic model kit instructions, you can find that here. However, those instructions mostly cover MDF builds, but they can still provide a few useful tips.

Since these kits are all acrylic, we recommend using a good plastic cement for a solid bond/weld, but cyanoacrylates should work find if you're careful not to let it flow too freely. With both glues, though, remember that less is often more, and a little glue can spread farther than you intend if you're not careful.

One additional note is that this is a very unique type of acrylic with a thin colored veneer over a solid acrylic base. This type of acrylic comes off the laser absolutely filthy with a sticky soot. You're going to want to clean that off before you begin to work, and generally we find a high purity rubbing alcohol (99% if you can find it) works great to clean things off, but some mild detergent (such as dish soap) and a toothbrush will scrub most of it off without a lot of work. We've also found that if too much heat is applied to the pieces the veneered surface can bubble and come loose. Be very careful when washing your pieces in super hot water.

So, with all of that in mind, please cut (from behind!) and sort your parts, and let's get to it!




There are two internal pieces that the dials themselves spin around. To ensure that this motion is as frictionless as possible, please make sure you're filing down any of the connection points that attached them to the frame. In general, it's not a bad idea to just give these bits a little filing all round, just to give yourself a little wiggle room, but as long as you make sure the connection points are smoothed you should be in good shape.


Step One

We're going to start with the outer fascia pieces. Gather the four pieces in the image, then, paying attention to orientation, apply a little glue to the base, and press the top piece into place. Hold for a second to allow the pieces to bite, and then set aside to cure.

Step Two

Once set, take the assembled back piece, and flip it to the inside, noting the orientation of the notches indicated in the photo below.

We're now going to attach the two small central alignment supports. Note, these pieces are tiny, two extras have been included on the frame. They are all identical, and you only need one pair.

Using the barest drop of glue applied to the rectangular well in the base, insert one of the two supports, forked side facing up. Make sure this is as straight and vertical as you can make it!

Now, once again, using minimal glue, apply a drop to the center of the fork on the support, and drop the other support in place, fork side down, to make a small cross.

Press this down and true it up, but don't use too much pressure. Plastic cements essentially melt the acrylic to create a bond, and if you press too hard you could actually warp the dimensions of the pieces. It may not seem like much, but it can make a huge difference to how smooth your pieces move when working in tolerances this tight.

Step Three

Once the last step has had a second to cure, we're going to finish the central support structure. Gather the two round pieces with the cross in the middle.

Starting with the slightly larger round piece with the protrusions, add a small dab of glue around the base of the cross on the back, then drop the round piece into place.

Note the orientation of the back piece and the notches on the round piece in the second photo. This must be aligned in this direction to function properly!

Next, apply another dab of glue and drop the second, smaller round piece into place as shown. Make sure these parts are pressed down to be flush, but, again, don't press too hard as to warp the curing pieces.

Set this piece aside to cure for a few minutes at least.

Step Four

This is the last, and most important step in this procedure. All that's left is to place the dials (DON'T GLUE), and then seal the assembly with the top shell.

Let's start by gathering the two dials.

First, take the dial with the larger central hole and the indicator slider, and place this on the back plate, with the slider on the opposite side as the notched cutout on the back plate as shown in the picture below.


Note: this piece can be placed with either color side up. Pick whichever side you think looks best.

Next, stack the second dial on top of the first, etched side face up as shown.


Lastly, take the top cover, and apply a small amount of glue to the well in the inside (just like you did on the bottom), then align the notched cutouts on the top and bottom case, and press the top assembly into place on the central support pillar as shown below.


  • Apply a small amount of pressure to make sure these parts grip, and try to ensure the top and bottom case are as parallel as possible.
  • Don't squeeze too hard on these pieces, because if you press too tightly you could prevent the dials from moving once the glue sets, or in the worst case scenario, you squeeze glue into the dials and everything seizes up!
  • Try to manipulate the dials and sliders while things are curing to make sure they move relatively freely. Be gentle with this, because you don't want things to come loose, but you also don't want any rogue glue that squeezed out to lock the dials in place. Moving them a little while things set can help make sure they keep spinning once everything cures.

With this last part in place, one dial should be complete! Now to take care of the other three from the kit!


If all went well in the construction the dial should spin fairly freely, and the slider should move easily enough. That said, if things are a little stiff, moving the slider and dials should help to loosen the motion. Think of it like a fidget spinner, and as you work it, things should get a little easier to move. Of course, you could always try a little graphite powder or lubricant, but we've not really done any experimenting with that yet, so use that at your own risk.